Masteringthe Artof Making Sake

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Sake brewing represents a harmonious fusion of ancient tradition and scientific precision, where rice, water, koji, and yeast converge to create a beverage deeply embedded in Japanese culture. From its origins as a ceremonial libation in Heian-era courts to its modern iteration as a globally celebrated craft drink, sake embodies both artistry and innovation. This exploration delves into the meticulous processes, regional distinctions, and evolving practices that define its production, offering insights into how brewers balance heritage with contemporary advancements.

The journey of sake begins with a legacy spanning over two millennia, evolving alongside Japan’s social and technological progress. Each step—from rice polishing to fermentation—reflects a commitment to quality, with techniques like nimashi and yamanori shaping its unique profiles. Meanwhile, regional terroir, from Niigata’s mineral-rich waters to Fushimi’s urban breweries, introduces diversity in flavor and texture. Today, sustainability and technological integration further redefine sake’s future, ensuring its relevance in both traditional and modern contexts.

Historical and Cultural Significance of Sake Production

The origins of sake trace back over 2,000 years to Japan’s ancient rice cultivation, where fermented beverages evolved from simple rice wine to a refined national drink deeply intertwined with Shinto rituals, aristocratic customs, and later, commercial brewing. Its transformation reflects technological advancements, societal shifts, and Japan’s cultural identity, from sacred offerings in shrines to a symbol of hospitality in modern izakayas. Key milestones—such as the introduction of koji mold in the Nara period and the rise of breweries during the Edo era—marked its transition from artisanal craft to an industrial staple, while traditional vessels like tokkuri and masu embody its aesthetic and functional legacy.

Origins and Early Development of Sake

Sake’s earliest forms emerged during the Jōmon period (14,000–300 BCE), when rice cultivation introduced fermented rice beverages, though these were likely crude and unrefined. By the Yayoi period (300 BCE–300 CE), contact with China and Korea formalized brewing techniques, incorporating rice, water, and fermenting agents like kōji (a cultured rice mold). Archaeological evidence from Kofun period (300–538 CE) tombs reveals ceramic jars containing residues of early sake, suggesting its use in burials as offerings to the deceased.

The Asuka period (538–710 CE) saw the formalization of sake production under Buddhist influence, with temples adopting brewing for religious ceremonies. The Nara period (710–794 CE) introduced koji mold—a breakthrough by Buddhist monks—enabling controlled fermentation and distinguishing sake from simpler rice wines. This innovation laid the foundation for its later refinement, as documented in the Kojiki (712 CE) and Nihon Shoki (720 CE), where sake appears as a ceremonial drink in imperial courts.

Sake in Traditional Japanese Ceremonies and Festivals

Sake’s role in Japanese culture extends beyond consumption, serving as a sacred medium in Shinto rituals and a symbol of social cohesion in communal celebrations. In Shinto ceremonies, sake (amazake or miyarimochi) is offered to kami (deities) during festivals like Setsubun (bean-throwing) or Omisoka (New Year’s Eve), where its purity and fermentation process mirror the cyclical nature of life. The Heian period (794–1185 CE) elevated sake to aristocratic elite status, with poetry and courtly etiquette dictating its service in choko (ceremonial sake cups) during tea gatherings.

During the Edo period (1603–1868 CE), sake became integral to festivals (matsuri) and geisha entertainment, with breweries sponsoring local events to promote their brands. The Meiji Restoration (1868–1912) modernized sake’s role, integrating it into national celebrations like Coming of Age Day and Plum Festival (Umeboshi Matsuri), where toasting rituals reinforced communal bonds. Today, sake remains central to weddings (shinzen-shiki) and funerals (kōdō), with specific brews (e.g., junmai for celebrations, genmaisha for mourning) reflecting cultural protocols.

Key Milestones in Sake Production History

The evolution of sake production is marked by technological and social transformations, from monastic innovations to industrialization. Below are pivotal developments:
  • Nara Period (710–794 CE): Introduction of koji mold
    Buddhist monks cultivated Aspergillus oryzae on steamed rice, enabling consistent fermentation and distinguishing sake from rice wine. This method, documented in the Engishiki (927 CE), standardized brewing and elevated sake’s quality.
  • Muromachi Period (1336–1573 CE): Rise of kura breweries
    Merchant-class breweries (kura) emerged in Kyoto and Osaka, producing sake for urban markets. The Mappō era (late Muromachi) saw sake as a commodity, with breweries adopting brand names and marketing strategies.
  • Edo Period (1603–1868 CE): Commercialization and regional styles
    The Tokugawa shogunate’s stability spurred brewery expansion, with Fushimi (Kyoto) and Nada (Hyōgo) becoming sake hubs. Regional variations arose, such as nimon-shu (double-fermented sake) in Fushimi and koshu (aged sake) in Niigata, reflecting local ingredients and techniques.
  • Meiji Era (1868–1912): Industrialization and pasteurization
    The Sake Brewing Law (1899) established quality standards, while pasteurization (1905) extended shelf life. Breweries adopted Western technology, though traditional methods persisted in rural areas.
  • Modern Era (1980s–Present): Globalization and craft revival
    The Japan Sake & Shochu Makers Association (1992) promoted sake internationally, while junmai and premium sake movements revived artisanal techniques. Today, brewery tours and sake pairing trends highlight its cultural and gastronomic value.

Cultural Importance of Sake Across Historical Eras

Sake’s societal role shifted with Japan’s political and economic landscapes, from religious offerings to a symbol of national identity. The following table compares its significance in key periods:
Era Brewing Methods Societal Role Cultural Symbolism
Heian (794–1185 CE)
  • Hand-fermented in wooden kura with koji and rice.
  • Limited to aristocracy; brewed in imperial palaces.
  • No pasteurization; consumed fresh.
  • Exclusive to courtly elite; served in tea ceremonies.
  • Used in kagami-biraki (rice-opening) festivals.
  • Poetry and literature (e.g., The Tale of Genji) romanticized sake.
Purity and refinement; linked to aristocratic virtue and divine favor.
Edo (1603–1868 CE)
  • Mass production in kura; introduction of shibori (pressing).
  • Use of yeast strains for consistency.
  • Regional styles (e.g., Fushimi’s nimon-shu).
  • Accessible to merchants and samurai; consumed in izakaya.
  • Breweries sponsored festivals to build loyalty.
  • Sake as currency in rural economies.
Social lubricant; tied to omotenashi (hospitality) and local pride.
Meiji (1868–1912 CE)
  • Pasteurization and bottling for export.
  • Standardization via Sake Brewing Law (1899).
  • Adoption of Western distilleries and refrigeration.
  • National drink; promoted in schools and military.
  • Sake as a symbol of modernization.
  • Decline of rural breweries due to urbanization.
National unity

Sake Brewing Process: Step-by-Step Technical Breakdown

The production of sake (nihonshu) is a meticulously regulated art-science hybrid, governed by strict fermentation principles and traditional techniques. Unlike beer or wine, sake relies on a parallel fermentation (nimashi) or multi-stage fermentation (yamanori) process, where rice starch is simultaneously converted into sugars and alcohol by kōji mold and yeast. This section dissects the technical workflow, from rice preparation to final maturation, emphasizing the biochemical and physical transformations that define sake’s unique profile.

Core Ingredients and Their Roles in Fermentation

The foundation of sake brewing consists of four primary components: polished rice, water, kōji (aspergillus oryzae), and yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae). Each ingredient undergoes specific treatments to optimize fermentation efficiency and flavor development.

- Rice polishing ratios determine sake grade and quality:

  • Daiginjo: ≥60% polishing (e.g., 50% retention), yielding ultra-clear, aromatic sake with minimal body.
  • Junmai: ≥70% polishing (e.g., 30% retention), balancing sweetness and acidity with moderate clarity.
  • Futsu-shu: ≥80% polishing (e.g., 20% retention), often distilled (shōchū-adulterated) for mass production.
  • Polishing removes bran and lipids, reducing bitterness and increasing starch purity for efficient saccharification.

    - Water quality directly impacts taste; high mineral content (e.g., soft water in Fushimi) enhances umami, while hard water (e.g., Niigata) may introduce astringency.

  • Kōji introduces amylase and protease enzymes, breaking down starch into fermentable sugars and hydrolyzing proteins into amino acids (critical for umami and mouthfeel).
  • Yeast strains (e.g., Kyokai #7, Kyokai #9) dictate alcohol tolerance (15–20% ABV) and flavor compounds (e.g., esters, higher alcohols).
  • Fermentation Methods: Nimashi vs. Yamanori

    The choice between parallel fermentation (nimashi) and multi-stage fermentation (yamanori) influences sake’s complexity, alcohol content, and production time.

    Parallel Fermentation (Nimashi)

  • Process: Rice, water, kōji, and yeast are combined in a single mash (moromi), where saccharification and alcohol production occur simultaneously.
  • Temperature control: Strictly regulated in three phases:
  • 1. Initial (0–3 days): 10–15°C to limit yeast activity and encourage kōji enzyme activity.
    2. Primary (3–10 days): 15–18°C to balance sugar conversion and alcohol production.
    3. Secondary (10–30 days): 18–20°C to complete fermentation (total 30–40 days).
  • Advantages: Faster production (ideal for futsu-shu), higher alcohol yield (15–18% ABV), and consistent flavor profiles.
  • Disadvantages: Less complexity; risk of over-fermentation if temperature exceeds 20°C.
  • Multi-Stage Fermentation (Yamanori)

  • Process: Involves three separate mash additions (soto-zuke, naka-zuke, tome-zuke), each fermented sequentially to extend enzyme activity and refine flavor.
  • Temperature control: Gradual increases across 60–90 days:
  • 1. First stage (0–15 days): 10–15°C (saccharification focus).
    2. Second stage (15–30 days): 15–18°C (yeast activation).
    3. Third stage (30–60 days): 18–22°C (alcohol maturation).
    4. Final stage (60–90 days): 15–18°C (clarification and aging).
  • Advantages: Produces lower-alcohol (12–15% ABV), more aromatic sake (daiginjo, junmai) with layered flavors from prolonged enzyme activity.
  • Disadvantages: Labor-intensive; higher risk of contamination if hygiene protocols fail.
  • Step-by-Step Fermentation Workflow

    The following flowchart outlines the technical sequence from rice to moromi maturation, with annotations for critical parameters.

    Stage Process Key Parameters Biochemical Role
    Rice Preparation Polishing Grade-specific ratios (e.g., 50% for daiginjo) Removes impurities; increases starch purity for saccharification.
    Washing & Soaking 12–16 hours in 10–15°C water Hydrates rice evenly; prevents uneven steaming.
    Steaming 90–100°C for 40–60 minutes Gelatinizes starch; kills surface microbes.
    Kōji Production Inoculation 10–15% of steamed rice with aspergillus oryzae Introduces amylase/protease for starch/protein breakdown.
    Incubation 30–40°C for 48–72 hours Optimal temperature for mold sporulation and enzyme production.
    Drying Room temperature (20–25°C) for 12–24 hours Stabilizes enzymes; prevents overgrowth.
    Mash Preparation (Moromi) Initial Mix (Shubo) 10–15% kōji, 85–90% steamed rice, yeast, water (pH 4.5–5.0) Initiates parallel fermentation; yeast consumes sugars.
    Secondary Additions (Soto/Naka/Tome) Additional kōji and rice added at 3–5 day intervals (yamanori) Extends enzyme activity; enhances umami and complexity.
    Fermentation Temperature-controlled (10–22°C), 30–90 days

    Carbonation and Alcohol Content:

    • Amylase (α/β-glucanases): Converts starch → maltose → glucose (fermentable sugars).
    • Protease: Hydrolyzes glutenin/gliadin → free amino acids (umami precursors).
    • Yeast (S. cerevisiae): Produces ethanol (12–20% ABV) and CO₂ (released during pressing).
    • Lactic Acid Bacteria (LAB): Optional in kasu (lees) fermentation; lowers pH, softens acidity.

    Alcohol tolerance of yeast limits final ABV; higher temperatures (>20°C) accelerate fermentation but risk off-flavors (e.g., fusel alcohols).

    Pressing (Shizuku) Low-pressure (5–10 kg/cm²) for 2–4 hours Separates liquid (nihonshu) from solids (kasu); minimal oxidation.
    Pasteurization & Filtration

    Regional Variations and Sake Styles in Japan

    Japan’s sake production is deeply intertwined with its geography, climate, and cultural heritage, resulting in distinct regional styles shaped by local water sources, rice varieties, and brewing traditions. The country’s diverse terroir—ranging from Hokkaido’s cool, crisp air to Kyushu’s warm, humid climate—produces sake with unique flavor profiles, from delicate and floral to rich and robust. Understanding these variations allows connoisseurs and enthusiasts to appreciate the nuanced craftsmanship behind each bottle, as well as the historical and environmental factors that define them.

    The following sections explore the defining characteristics of major production regions, the technical and sensory distinctions between key sake styles, and the seasonal and limited-edition varieties that reflect Japan’s agricultural cycles. Additionally, traditional pairings with Japanese cuisine highlight how regional sake enhances culinary experiences through complementary flavors and textures.

    Major Sake Production Regions and Their Defining Characteristics

    Japan’s sake regions are categorized by their geographical, hydrological, and climatic conditions, each contributing to the distinctive profile of their products. The following regions are among the most influential, with their unique attributes rooted in centuries of brewing expertise:
    1. Niigata Prefecture (新潟県)
      Niigata, located on Japan’s northwest coast, is renowned for its high-quality yama-brewed sake, characterized by a balance of umami, acidity, and a clean finish. The region’s soft, mineral-rich water—low in calcium and magnesium—enhances the clarity and purity of the brew. Niigata’s Yamada Nishiki and Koshihikari rice varieties are prized for their polished grains and high protein content, which contribute to a rich, layered flavor. The cool summers and mild winters allow for slower fermentation, preserving delicate aromas. Notable breweries such as Hakkaisan and Kubota exemplify Niigata’s commitment to premium craftsmanship, often producing honjōzō and daiginjō grades with exceptional clarity and depth.
    2. Fushimi Ward, Kyoto (伏見区)
      Situated along the Katsura River, Fushimi is Japan’s largest sake-producing district, historically supplying Kyoto’s aristocracy and temples. The region’s hard water, rich in minerals like calcium and magnesium, imparts a slightly drier, more structured profile to its sake. Fushimi is famous for its affordable yet high-quality junmai and ginjō styles, often brewed with Yamada Nishiki rice. The warm climate accelerates fermentation, resulting in sake with bright acidity and a crisp, refreshing character. Breweries like Gekkeikan and Kizakura dominate the market, producing both everyday drinking sake and premium offerings that cater to a wide range of palates.
    3. Nada, Hyogo Prefecture (灘)
      Nada, often referred to as the "King of Sake," produces some of Japan’s most luxurious and complex brews. The region’s abundant, soft water—sourced from the Rokkō Mountains—combines with highly polished rice (often Koshihikari or Yamada Nishiki) to create sake with intense umami, a velvety texture, and long, lingering finishes. Nada’s warm, humid climate fosters ideal conditions for koji mold cultivation, enhancing the brew’s depth. Many Nada breweries, such as Hirase and Shirofuri, specialize in daiginjō and junmai daiginjō, often aged to perfection. The region’s sake is frequently described as "sweet yet dry," with notes of cherry blossoms, honey, and toasted rice.
    4. Hokkaido (北海道)
      Hokkaido’s cool climate and low humidity create unique challenges and opportunities for sake brewing. The region’s hard water, high in calcium and magnesium, produces sake with distinct mineral notes and a slightly astringent character. Hokkaido is known for its robust, full-bodied sake, often brewed with local rice varieties like Hatsunishiki or Koshihikari. The slow fermentation process due to cooler temperatures preserves fruity and floral aromas, while the high acidity balances richness. Breweries such as Sapporo Brewery and Dassai experiment with wild yeast and natural fermentation, resulting in experimental and artisanal styles that push traditional boundaries.
    5. Kyushu (九州), Particularly Fukuoka and Kagoshima
      Kyushu’s warm climate and volcanic soil contribute to sake with bold, tropical, and sometimes spicy characteristics. The region’s soft, acidic water enhances fermentation, producing sake with bright fruitiness and a lively acidity. Kagoshima, in particular, is famous for its strong, aromatic sake, often brewed with local rice like Koshihikari or Akita 148. Breweries like Chichibu (though headquartered in Saitama, its Kyushu operations reflect regional influence) and Takara Shuzo leverage high-temperature fermentation to create rich, malty profiles with notes of citrus, stone fruits, and caramel. Kyushu’s sake is increasingly gaining recognition for its innovative and unfiltered styles.

    Flavor Profiles of Key Sake Styles: Honjōzō, Genmai, and Koshu

    The classification of sake styles is governed by Japan’s National Tax Agency (NTA), which defines categories based on rice polishing ratios, brewing methods, and aging. Below is a comparative analysis of three prominent styles, presented in a structured format for clarity:
    Style Definition ABV Range Rice Polishing Ratio Key Flavor and Aroma Notes Typical Serving Temperature Regional Associations
    Honjōzō (本醸造) A premium classification requiring 70% or more of the rice to be polished, with no added alcohol (unless specified as jōzō). Must use junmai-grade rice and adhere to strict fermentation controls. 15–16% ≤ 70%
    • Clean, bright acidity with subtle umami and delicate floral notes (e.g., cherry blossom, green tea).
    • Dry to semi-dry finish, often with a silky mouthfeel.
    • May exhibit citrus or melon undertones from fermentation.
    8–12°C (46–54°F) Niigata, Nada, Fushimi (common in daiginjō subcategory).
    Genmai (玄米) Sake brewed with unpolished rice (genmai), retaining the outer bran layer for added nutritional and textural complexity. May be junmai, honjōzō, or ginjō if polished to ≤ 60%. 14–17% ≥ 70% (unpolished) or ≤ 60% (junmai genmai)
    • Nuttier, earthier profile with toasted rice or grain notes.
    • Higher acidity and body, often slightly sweet due to residual starch.
    • May include honey, caramel, or dried fruit flavors.
    10–15°C (50–59°F) Hokkaido, Tohoku, rural breweries (e.g., kura distilleries).
    Kosh

    Modern Innovations and Sustainability in Sake Production

    The evolution of sake brewing has transitioned from centuries-old traditions to a fusion of cutting-edge technology and eco-conscious practices. Advancements in automation, precision engineering, and sustainable resource management now define the industry’s future, ensuring efficiency without compromising authenticity. Simultaneously, global consumer preferences—such as low-alcohol and flavored variants—are prompting breweries to innovate while maintaining Japan’s heritage. This section explores technological breakthroughs, sustainable certifications, and the economic revitalization driven by sake tourism, illustrating how tradition and modernity coexist in contemporary brewing.

    Technological Advancements in Sake Brewing

    Precision instrumentation and digital integration have revolutionized the moromi fermentation process, traditionally reliant on artisan intuition. Modern breweries employ automated moromi monitoring systems that track temperature, acidity, and yeast activity in real-time using sensors and IoT (Internet of Things) devices. For instance, Kubota Corporation’s SakeMaster system integrates with brewing tanks to adjust parameters dynamically, reducing human error and optimizing fermentation cycles. Precision temperature control via programmable heating/cooling units ensures consistency in enzyme activity, particularly critical for high-quality junmai and daiginjo sake. Additionally, AI-assisted flavor prediction models, developed in collaboration with universities like Kyoto University, analyze spectral data from near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy to forecast final aroma and taste profiles, enabling brewers to fine-tune rice polishing ratios and yeast strains pre-fermentation.

    Automation and Data-Driven Brewing

    The integration of machine learning algorithms allows breweries to predict optimal fermentation timelines and detect anomalies early. Suntory’s Sake Innovation Center utilizes AI to simulate koji mold growth patterns, reducing waste by up to 15% through predictive analytics. Similarly, Dassault Systèmes’ 3DEXPERIENCE platform enables virtual brewing simulations, where variables like rice variety, water hardness, and yeast strain interactions are modeled before physical production. This not only accelerates R&D but also minimizes resource-intensive trial-and-error processes. Blockchain technology is also being adopted for traceability, with breweries like Hakkaisan implementing systems to log every stage—from rice sourcing to bottling—ensuring transparency for consumers and regulatory compliance.

    Sustainable Practices in Breweries

    Eco-friendly initiatives in sake production address environmental impact across the supply chain, from rice cultivation to energy consumption. Solar-powered distilleries have emerged as a prominent solution, with breweries such as Gekkeikan installing photovoltaic panels to offset electricity use during pasteurization and storage. Rice husk biomass energy systems, like those at Itoh Sake Brewery, convert agricultural byproducts into biofuel, reducing reliance on fossil fuels by up to 30%. Water recycling systems are standard in modern breweries, where up to 90% of process water is purified and reused, adhering to Japan’s Water Recycling Law. Additionally, zero-waste policies involve repurposing spent koji and lees (kasu) into animal feed, organic fertilizers, or even skincare products, as demonstrated by Kizakura Brewery’s collaboration with cosmetic brands.

    Certifications for Sustainable Sake Production

    To formalize eco-conscious brewing, Japan has established certifications that verify adherence to sustainability criteria. Below is a table outlining key certifications and their requirements:
    Certification Issuing Body Key Criteria Notable Breweries
    Organic JAS (Japan Organic) Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MAFF)
    • Use of organic rice and additives (e.g., koji mold grown without synthetic pesticides).
    • Prohibition of chemical fertilizers and GMOs in rice cultivation.
    • Composting of organic waste on-site.
    Kizakura, Hakkaisan (select lines)
    Eco-Friendly Brewery (環境配慮醸造所) Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association (JSS)
    • Energy efficiency: 30% reduction in CO₂ emissions via renewable sources.
    • Water conservation: Recycling systems covering ≥80% of process water.
    • Waste reduction: ≤5% of total production weight as non-recyclable waste.
    Dassai, Takara Shuzo
    Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) for Packaging International (adopted by Japanese breweries)
    • 100% biodegradable or recycled materials for bottles and labels.
    • No synthetic dyes or plastics in packaging.
    Kubota, Niigata-based microbreweries
    Consumer demand for low-alcohol sake (≤10% ABV) has spurred innovations in yeast strains and fermentation techniques. Breweries like Suzuken have developed genmai (brown rice) sake with naturally lower alcohol content, catering to health-conscious markets. Fruit-infused variants, such as yuzu-shu or black sesame-infused junmai, reflect global palates while preserving sake’s core profile. These adaptations often involve cold carbonation for effervescence or post-fermentation maceration with fruits, techniques borrowed from wine and beer industries. Additionally, craft sake movements in cities like Tokyo and Osaka emphasize small-batch production, with breweries like BrewDog Japan experimenting with hopped sake hybrids to attract younger audiences.

    Sake Tourism and Economic Revitalization

    Sake breweries have become cultural hubs, driving rural economic growth through brewery tours, tastings, and experiential workshops. Hakkaisan’s Sake no Ouchi in Niigata offers immersive programs where visitors participate in rice polishing, koji making, and moromi tasting, complemented by seasonal festivals. Similarly, Dassai’s Sake Village in Fukuoka integrates a museum, rooftop brewery viewing deck, and a café serving sake-based cocktails, attracting over 200,000 visitors annually. Kizakura’s Sake School in Kyoto provides certification courses, fostering local employment in hospitality and education sectors. These initiatives not only preserve brewing traditions but also create multi-million-yen revenue streams for regional economies, as seen in Nara’s Sake no Sato, where tourism accounts for 40% of the prefecture’s agricultural income.

    Case Study: Niigata’s Sake Industry Revitalization

    Niigata Prefecture, renowned for its Yamahai-style sake, has leveraged tourism to counteract declining rural populations. The Niigata Sake Brewery Association launched the Sake no Kuni Niigata campaign, featuring interactive apps that map brewery locations and historical brewing sites. Kubota’s Sake Museum in Joetsu combines augmented reality (AR) to explain fermentation processes, while Itoh’s Sake Park offers overnight stays with brewmasters. These efforts have increased Niigata’s sake exports by 25% since 2015, with tourism contributing ¥12 billion annually to the local economy. The model has been replicated in Fukuoka and Shimane, where breweries collaborate with local governments to develop sake-themed agritourism packages.

    Sake transcends its role as a beverage, serving as a cultural artifact that bridges Japan’s past and present. Whether through the precision of daiginjo craftsmanship or the adaptability of eco-conscious breweries, its production encapsulates a philosophy of respect for tradition and ingenuity. As global palates increasingly embrace its complexity, sake continues to evolve—proving that mastery lies not only in replication but in innovation rooted in centuries-old wisdom.

    make sake - Kesimpulan

    make sake - Kesimpulan

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